Rats: Not What You'd Expect part 3- Health and Care

I know what you're thinking. You're thinking, Who gets vet care for a rat? They're like, $8 at the pet store. Responsible pet owners get vet care for a rat when it's needed. There are vets who take care of "exotic" animals, and all it takes is a phone book and a telephone or an internet connection and Google (or Ask Jeeves, Bing, etc. ) But what warrants vet care and what can be left to heal on it's own?

Bleeding injuries - sometimes, rats may fight or just plain scratch themselves. It's easy enough to help prevent flesh wounds due to scratching with a weekly nail trimming. Use human nail clippers and pay attention to the quick. It's the little pink section that will bleed like crazy and hurt A LOT if you clip it. As long as you're careful, quicks shouldn't be a problem. But if a rat does get some kind of scratch or other flesh wound, wash it out with soap and water or a mild antiseptic rinse. I typically use either Bactine or Band-Aid Hurt-Free Antiseptic Wash. Peroxide and rubbing alcohol will both attack healthy tissue and cause unnecessary pain, so avoid them. If a rat gets into a major fight and has sustained bleeding, a large wound, a flap of skin/major puncture wound, or internal organs showing GET IT TO A VET. Period. Additionally, if your rat seems to be scratching more than normal, it's advisable to bring it to a vet. He may have fleas or mites, and they may be hard to see. A vet can diagnose and treat mites, fleas, and even some skin conditions. Injuries to the eyes should ALWAYS be seen by a vet.

Skeletal and muscular injuries are harder to determine. Signs may include limping, squawking, or an abnormal unwillingness to be held. If you see an injury happen, like a major fall, a foot getting stuck, or a tail getting caught in a wheel, call your vet and get advice. In some cases, there may be nothing to do but monitor the rat for a few days. Some vets may prescribe painkillers or anti-inflammatory medications. It all depends on the injury.

Illnesses are also somewhat harder to determine. In some cases, such as tumors, abscesses, or cysts, the symptoms are obvious, whereas respiratory illnesses may not be caught early on. Tumors are unfortunately common, particularly in unspayed females. Sometimes, they will remain small enough to be left alone, but in many cases, they will need to be surgically removed. Tumors large enough to impede walking or to drag on the ground/cage floor are unhealthy and uncomfortable for the rat. Cysts are similar to tumors, but are generally harder and more perfectly round. The same situation applies: if it becomes a hindrance, it needs to be treated. In some cases, a cyst can simply be drained. Abscesses are decidedly unpleasant. They can range from looking like a pimple or tiny tumor to being an open wound with a foul smelling discharge. In any case, they are not good and require medical attention. If left untreated, they can cause major blood infections and lead to death. Many can be easily drained, while some will need to be operated on to remove. Fun story: Lilly had a small abscess on her belly near her armpit. I scheduled an appointment with the vet to have it taken care of, but two days before the appointment, I found a small scab where the (pimple-style) abscess had been. She was given antibiotics to keep everything in check, but she recovered fully. Either it burst and drained on its own, or she decided enough was enough and opened it herself. Regardless, she is one tough cookie.

Respiratory infections are extremely common. All rodents are susceptible to them, and most will end up having one at some point. They may go away on their own within a week, but if not, seek medical treatment. Some indicators of a respiratory infection are: excessive sneezing, labored breathing, gasping for air, lethargy, decrease in eating or drinking, and a reddish discharge around the eyes and nose. Note that some discharge, known as porphyrin, may be constantly present. This is harmless, much like snot and that crusty stuff in the corners of your eyes after sleeping. If there seems to be an overabundance of it, it begins out of nowhere, or is accompanied by one or more of the other listed symptoms, it's a good idea to check with your vet.

There are a wide variety of other illnesses that I simply cannot cover. Head tilt, neurological issues, etc. are serious conditions that should be seen by a vet. Fortunately, I haven't experienced any of these issues, but unfortunately for you, that means I don't have much information about them. Obviously, if I do encounter those issues, I will be doing a ton of research, and will edit this section accordingly.

Long story short, illness is illness, whether in a human, a dog, or a rat. Yes, rats are small and inexpensive to purchase, but they can feel, and they have emotions, too. Please do not neglect to get your rat medical attention. They know what's going on. Don't make them suffer.

Truth: Some diseases and injuries are unpredictable or unavoidable. Truth: Some diseases and injuries can be easily prevented. Tumors and minor wounds happen. Even the most friendly of cagemates can have a bad day and nip or scratch each other. Like in humans, tumors in rats happen without warning and sometimes without reason. But issues like bumblefoot and respiratory infections can be prevented, and usually very easily.

Housing is important, and will be discussed in detail in a later post, but a few important housing things will help keep your rat healthy and comfortable. First off, cages should not have wire floors. Feet can get trapped, ankles twisted, and bumblefoot can develop. This is not a nice infection and can lead to death if left untreated. Additionally, bedding should be changed at least once a week to prevent urine burns. A cage should be adequately sized for the number of rats inside. I personally suggest no less than 3 cubic feet per rat, but theories on this vary. I also have a Critter Nation double cage, which is enormous. I have two rats in there now, but I firmly believe that it would be adequate for 4-5 rats on a permanent basis. Make sure that when buying a cage, it has enough room for all of your rats (you should always have at least 2 together unless there are serious aggression issues) and that the bar spacing is no wider than 1/2". Remember that if a rat's head can make it through, so can the rest of the body. 1" spacing is too wide, plain and simple.

Bedding is important, too. Wood chips are a bad idea: many of them, like cedar and pine, contain "aromatic oils" that can cause skin reactions and respiratory infections. If you do go with wood chips, only use aspen, and consider sifting it first, as too much dust will also cause respiratory issues. I prefer to use towels and fleece as bedding; it can be washed, so there's less to replace. That makes it better for the environment AND your wallet. If you do choose to use regular bedding, Carefresh, Yesterday's News, and Eco Bedding are the best bets. Again, sifting is advisable to remove dust.

Climate also has an important role to play. Rats are less accepting of high and low temperatures. It's best to keep temperatures between 65°F and 75°F. Too cold and rats will become hypothermic; too hot and they will quickly develop heatstroke. Add extra blankets or fleece in winter and make sure rats stay hydrated in summer. You can add ice cubes to their water, give them some frozen peas to play with, or treat them with apples, romaine lettuce, or small amounts of watermelon. Additionally, dry air may cause nosebleeds. If you live in a very dry area, invest in a humidifier.

Hera, seen right, has a skin condition of indeterminate origin. Multiple tests were run to determine what made her appear to have massive scabs on her ears, nose, and feet, and cause severe scaling and sensitivity on her tail. I would soak her tail and feet for a few minutes each week in warm water, and try to clean out her ears with warm water on a cotton swab, but it didn't let up. We tried antifungals, antivirals, and antibiotics. Nothing worked.

Finally, when being treated for arthritis in her tail (I mean, really, the poor thing has two seriously swollen joints!) the skin condition went away. She takes metacam once a week, and it seems to keep the inflammation and skin condition at bay. (There is lots of controversy surrounding metacam, but she seems to be doing well and is constantly monitored.) Our best guess at this point is an autoimmune disease or simply the byproduct of poor breeding.

Visit my other hubs, Rats: Not What You'd Expect part 1 and Rats: Not What You'd Expect part 2- Basic Facts and Feeding for more information. Look for part 4 in this series coming shortly!